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I have to make a difficult decision on my rigging.

One one hand I could have professional Gibb fittings (my masts are aluminum), they are beautiful, certainly very strong but it will cost me a fortune(I am waiting for the estimate) to have all the cables done this way, but this will also bring peace of mind.

Or, I could buy the SS cable, the crimping tool, the crimps and do it myself with the wharram loops system.

Knowing that I am a little bit short on money for the end, what would you do?

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We are doing the stainless steel and crimping now. This is strong the way Walter is doing it and he tested it to be sure. Very strong! It is not beautiful. Where the crimps are near our lovely deadeyes, i will sew on leathers to hide them. I will use leather from lady's hand bangs from the Salvation Army. True loveliness, we think, is being able to still afford to go sailing! Aloft it will not show, so we are putting hoses over the mast loops to protect the mast. Being again in the Bahamas in the winter will be lovely enough for us. Ann and Nev
On second thought, Jacques, I am looking at several catamarans and trimarans here in Walter Greene's yard and some have that fabric material for the rigging which I had not seen before. It is beautiful, thin, light weight, and strong. You can do it yourself. I think you might consider it if you can find out more information than we could. Our concern is the solar degradation problem which was not answered well enough for me to get complete understanding of how much damage it will get in the tropics where we go each year. I figure it MUST suffer some degradation. The Stainless steel would not be bothered by tropical sun at all, and it would be strong, so we went with it because we know all about it. Stainless is not perfect either and not lovely. I preferred the look of the Norselay which we had, but that stuff was breaking, so is totally unacceptable to us. Never again Norselay. It certainly is a hard decision.

Ann and Nev
On my t38 I set up my rigging according to plan,I have alu masts also, crimped 1x19s.s. for the loops,and swaged the lower ends,i noticed excessive slap on the leeward shrouds and have read on wharram forum that there had been failures because of the slap,I changed the loops to synthetic strops and put stalock fittings at the upper ends,a much better arrangement,my forestay bridle is made up of dynex dux synthetic lineof which I have seen no sun degradation,I would have changed my shrouds and forestay to dynex duxif I did not have the s.s. already.Dynex is available thru Colligomarine,you can do all the splicing yourself,he sells deadeyes and a variety of great products,hope this helps you out.Good luck on finishing your 38 Jaques,the boat looks great!!!!!
Hans.
Thanks to all of you,

I have now several options. I went to check the dynex dux and the colligo deadeyes, very tempting too. I have one concern about the piston hanks on the synthetic though. This might be a reason to keep the forestay stainless steel.

I have to do my homework now call the providers and count my $$$.
Hi Jacques, I've read that the Dux is so tough that the metal hanks aren't a problem. Colligio also has some synthetic hanks that are very light and strong. They also have a very nice roller furler that we will use on our next boat. On our Tiki 30 we used a Harken roller furler. It is a very nice unit and we have had no problems with it at all. We used a ss wire headstay with this furler. Our bridle and shrouds and the mast loops are all from Dux. One very nice feature of the Dux is the ability to carry spares that are both lightweight and compact. I also really like Colligio's deadeyes. We also have spliced the Dux around thimbles as if it were wire. It gives a better radius, removes a chafe point and is sleeker than the Colligio terminators. We discussed this with John Franz of Collogio and he was cool with it. You are at an exciting point in your build Jacques, go baby go. Cheers David www.boatsmithfl.com
We are so far from having to make this decision (we haven't even lofted the backbone of our Tiki 46 yet) but we are intensely interested in this discussion. I have a question, to protect against UV degradation, can the Dynex Dux be sleeved in, say, leather? Would this be practical and in any way useful? I was reading somewhere that rope standing rigging was at times sheathed in leather to increase its longevity? The pairing of a modern UHMWPE fiber surrounded by seasoned leather for UV protection sounds like a good solution but I am an amateur, as my wife likes to point out, whose good sense is rivalled only by my dreaming.
I like the idea of the strops being fabric at the loop over the mast end of the wire rigging. Right now I am repainting our masts and there are grooves where the norselay wires were pressing on the mast. If you use stainless wire up to the strop around the mast and if you can afford the norseman fittings, this would be really good. Even Alloy masts can be damaged by stainless wire loops.

As to the covering for the fabric "wires", I think putting leathers on them would be time consuming in the extreme. Another way might be to take the cover layer off some rope or to use webbing that is tubular and thread that over the fabric "wires" for solar protection. Somebody must know if these fabric "wires" actually can stand up to the solar situation or not. Perhaps no cover is needed?

Peace has so many commercial fabric lifting strops on her now, I do not know where to start counting them. We get commercial lifting strops with the working load listing attached and use them for all kinds of stuff. We have about 10 of them around various crossbeams and the booms have them for holding the main sheets, etc. They are quick to install, cheap to buy, and do not require drilling anything so leave the boat strong and the paint work intact. We get them over strong and they are not degrading in the sun so far. 7 years some have been in use and all near or at deck lever so I can check them often.

Ann and Nev
Jacques,

I'm refitting my tiki 26, Vaea, and using synthetic line for the standing rigging. Splicing the 12-strand is not hard at all after doing a few practice runs to get used to the way the line handles. I'm using Samson Amsteel, 1/4" for the shrouds, 5/16" for the forestay and bridles. I bought a 600' spool of the 1/4" Amsteel from a fishing boat supplies dealer: cheaper than pleasure boat dealers!

I would not be comfortable crimping fittings on SS cable. My research says that the best crimp is a one-time crimp, which can be done best by a rotary swaging machine that costs over 100k. . .After listening to Glenn Tieman talk about forestay failure due to the stress on the wire just below the swage at the top of the stay, I decided that the synthetic line would be the way to go.

Here is the new forestay I spliced up the other day:


Soft hanks can be spliced up from the same material.

Ann and Nev, great idea for a leather source!

I have started playing around with the synthetic rigging side of things,yes the darkside has claimed me.The first improved brummel splice was a bit ropey;} but it is a lot easier than i thought and am confident that i can pulll it off afte a few more practice splices.The rope i am using is made in Czech rep and is called fse robline dyneema 6mm,lovely to work with but i need to get a sharp knife.Two questions though,do i need to pre stretch the stuff an

d would you make a dolphin striker tension rig out of it?

cheers paul.

Paul,
I stretched the plain dyneema after splicing the hardware into the ends. You might recall I ended up useing dynex dux (the heat-treated dyneema) for the forestay. Undisturbed, it has practically no constructional stretch; I was careful to only disturb the line portion actually used for the brummels. You could use dux for a dolphin striker as long as you could get the length right for it as designed. Colligo's website says to expect 2" of stretch for 6-7mm, 4" of stretch for 9mm as the disturbed area of the splice resets the braid under load. Double those figures , of course, for line with splices at both ends. Do your own tests by carefully measuring the line before and after to learn this in person!

(the figures above are for dux--I woud double them for non-dux dyneema)


I did not change the existing dolphin striker on Vaea's mast beam. If the beam was in construction, I imagine a method could be designed to tension the striker, if you were so inclined!

Thanks Kim,for the loop that goes around the top of the mast would a brummel splice do the job?

More than strong enough, Paul. I would do as others have done and put some anti-chafe stuff on the loop itself. Either leather or those nylon/velcro sleeves used for anchor rodes.

 

When I was going to go the same route, I thought of using some dacron cover for anti-chafe, but in order to make the brummel with the dacron cover inside the brummel, you have to thread the far end of the line through. It can be done, of course, but the other anti-chafing methods seemed sufficient.

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