Re lashing rudders...

[Frank Higgott]

I recently bought a Tiki 26 (plan #294). She needs a small amount of work to get her up and running. 

The rudders have been removed by cutting the lashings. The lashings themselves were epoxied into the lashing holes. This has caused a head ache to remove them. I've tried drilling a couple out but no matter how hard I try it is impossible to keep the bit in line with the original hole, making a mess of them.

I'm wondering if I can drill the old lashings out, Fill the holes with epoxy and then re drill. I really like the idea of lashings and would rather not go down the gudgeon and pintel track.

Has anyone out there got a better solution? Thanks for any ideas.

[Frank Higgott]

Good thoughts Omar, thank you.

Patrick, I have to replace the lashings as that is how the boat was when I bought it. The rudders had been cut off. Not sure why, maybe it helped with transportation. The boat had been stored in a shed for about 5 years when I got it.

Cheers,

Frank.

[NeilR]

Frank, I'm glad I found this old thread as I too have the identical issue as you. Without further debate on how the lashings should/could be done (some great ideas offered), here is how I resolved the removal of old lashings.

I worked the stiffened line until I could identify where the hole was then trimmed flush with a stanley knife (box cutter). I then removed the flux from a 3.2mm arc welding rod and cut the rod to short lengths of approx 100-150mm. I ground the tips to a pencil like point. I made several of these as they loose their temper and bend easily after a couple of holes. I made a crude file handle and inserted the rod.

I then used an LPG blow torch (propane) and heated the rod tip to red for about 30-50mm. I then inserted the hot rod into the centre core of the trimmed line and burned through. It sometimes took two or three heat treatments to get through and on a couple of occasions I burned from the opposite side.

This process leaves a neat hole but it's encased in melted material that will need to be removed. I then carefully drilled that out.

I hope this method helps someone else.

[Dt1]

Sikaflex in the rudder lashing holes is not so much for waterproofing as it is to keep the rudder in line with the hull.  Without the Sikaflex (or similar) the rudder can slide to the side and fall out of alignment with the hull.  When this happens, the rudder has to be removed and reinstalled.