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Question. I've just posted a picture of my current forestay setup. I have separated forestay tension from jib luff tension with a self-cleating 6:1 block tensioning the forestay, and a 4:1 purchase tension the jib luff. This works perfectly going to weather. I can haul down on the 6:1 until my whole rig is very tight - no sag on the lee shrouds. With the rig tight much less tension is required on the jib downhaul to get a tight luff. Setup this way, the boat goes to weather in a stiff breeze like a steam train. I'd appreciate any feedback on any possible downside to setting up the rig this way - it puts much more tension on the rig than is usual on a Wharram? On the other hand, the Wharram design (rig, beams and hulls) is over-engineered and I think it should be more than strong enough to handle the loads. I have been using this setup for about a year including in winds up to 30 knots. Comments appreciated.

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when I raced tornados heavy wind depowering of the jib  was done with a barber hauler system that changed the angle of attack of the jib  and a jib down haul on the sail for flattening  (not the forstay) jib sheet operated as normal.. forstay tension was maintained with the main sheet with a traveler  to depower rather than easing the sheet.. flattening of the mainsail was acheived with a combination of downhaul and diamond tension this is all very hi tech compared to a wharram rig  but the principles are the same.. generaly hard to wind ward on whatever cat  I,ve race the lee shroud has always been slack main sheet controling the forstay tension and the barber hauler allowing the jib to depower before the MAIN sail


Good info: I recently added  in and outhaulers, with twings, for my jib sheets. I used them on my last sail to good effect. Allowed me to maintain good twist and practically eliminate leech flutter.  This system can move the clew in 3 dimensions; I'm not fully up to speed, but I'm learning!

Keep it up fellas, i am learning here.

cheers paul

I use a snatch block on a line which I tie off to where ever is convenient (usually the beam end cleat) as an alternative to a permanent barber hauler setup.  I works well for getting a good angle on the sail down wind.  We have jib sheet tracks on the inboard of the cabin tops and the outboard top of the centre cabin (primarily for the storm jib) which gives us a means to close the slot to windward, but I have found it best to crack off for speed rather than point unless the sea is flat.

Hi Roger, Nice to see the enthusiasm you have for learning all the great traits of the Tiki21. Thanks for sharing! I think your forestay setup sound fine. If you steam too hard all you'll do is to flex beams and lashings a little. I have a fixed length forestay shackled to the bridle, then I steam the shrouds to tension it all up. I find with double shrouds, you can haul sideways on one and then sweat up on the other that gets slack beside it. I found with the Jester trip going to windward - much better to reef the jib down first and keep more drive from the main longer as the wind gets up. Otherwise larger % of jib relative to the main just pulls the bows off to leeward especially pitching over waves. I too use a barberhauler to get the clew of the jib inboard by another 8" or so when going upwind. As Cookie has a working size jib or smaller when reefed - I can just tension the lazy sheet round the front of the mast to get the clew in.

Kinda shows in the pic below... Cheers Rory

Thanks for the insights Rory - much appreciated.

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