Deadeyes for dyneema rig tension? - Wharram Builders and Friends2024-03-29T01:08:02Zhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/forum/topics/deadeyes-for-dyneema-rig-tension?commentId=2195841%3AComment%3A145853&feed=yes&xn_auth=noMagnifique
paul anderson sa…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-11:2195841:Comment:1460092016-10-11T21:41:23.766ZÉric Bouvéronhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/Bouveron
Magnifique<br />
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<cite>paul anderson said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/forum/topics/deadeyes-for-dyneema-rig-tension#2195841Comment145755"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>This may be of interest.<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of_standing_rigging.html" target="_blank">http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of...</a></p>
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Magnifique<br />
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<cite>paul anderson said:</cite><blockquote cite="http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/forum/topics/deadeyes-for-dyneema-rig-tension#2195841Comment145755"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>This may be of interest.<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of_standing_rigging.html" target="_blank">http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of...</a></p>
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</blockquote> Iʻm having the deadeyes made…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-11:2195841:Comment:1457612016-10-11T20:07:22.058ZAllen Boselyhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/AllenBosely
<p> Iʻm having the deadeyes made by Zephyrwerks the Sheave Factory, zephyrwerks.com. Using his rope stropped block kits, with Locust for the shells and acetal sheaves with oilite self lubricating bronze sleeve bearings and SS pins for all my blocks. Ed makes custom sized deadeyes out of Locust. </p>
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<p> Iʻm going old school and traditional on the Narai. Three strand POSH rope rigging that looks very similar to three strand hemp rope etc...</p>
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<p> Cheers, Allen</p>
<p> Iʻm having the deadeyes made by Zephyrwerks the Sheave Factory, zephyrwerks.com. Using his rope stropped block kits, with Locust for the shells and acetal sheaves with oilite self lubricating bronze sleeve bearings and SS pins for all my blocks. Ed makes custom sized deadeyes out of Locust. </p>
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<p> Iʻm going old school and traditional on the Narai. Three strand POSH rope rigging that looks very similar to three strand hemp rope etc...</p>
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<p> Cheers, Allen</p> that is indeed a very cool pr…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-11:2195841:Comment:1460072016-10-11T19:40:21.925Zboatsmithhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/qe0j3ojqb10
<p>that is indeed a very cool project. </p>
<p>that is indeed a very cool project. </p> I got the sheet of POM on EBA…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-11:2195841:Comment:1456702016-10-11T16:59:03.212Zlaurenthttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/laurent
<p>I got the sheet of POM on EBAY for 6 € <a href="http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/photo/image-832?context=user" target="_blank">http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/photo/image-832?context=user</a></p>
<p>hard to UV and very resistant .</p>
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<p>I got the sheet of POM on EBAY for 6 € <a href="http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/photo/image-832?context=user" target="_blank">http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/photo/image-832?context=user</a></p>
<p>hard to UV and very resistant .</p>
<p></p> This may be of interest.http:…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-11:2195841:Comment:1457552016-10-11T16:37:03.773Zpaul andersonhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/paulanderson
<p>This may be of interest.<a href="http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of_standing_rigging.html" target="_blank">http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of_standing_rigging.html</a></p>
<p>This may be of interest.<a href="http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of_standing_rigging.html" target="_blank">http://www.alden347.com/Blog/Entries/2015/12/30_Second_load_test_of_standing_rigging.html</a></p> Thank you for your answers.
I…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-10:2195841:Comment:1458532016-10-10T08:47:59.229ZÉric Bouvéronhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/Bouveron
Thank you for your answers.<br />
I will keep it simple, and go for Colligo.<br />
However, speaking about phénolic resin, Tufnol,I have collected quite a few blocks that will find a place on my boat, once I -hopefully- put it in the water. I never tried to work with the bare product but I will remember that it is possible.<br />
Thank you again,<br />
Éric
Thank you for your answers.<br />
I will keep it simple, and go for Colligo.<br />
However, speaking about phénolic resin, Tufnol,I have collected quite a few blocks that will find a place on my boat, once I -hopefully- put it in the water. I never tried to work with the bare product but I will remember that it is possible.<br />
Thank you again,<br />
Éric If you would like a fancy stu…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-10:2195841:Comment:1456622016-10-10T06:08:16.769Zagur paesüldhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/agurpaesueld
<p>If you would like a fancy stuff for your dyneema lines, here is one small Estonian company offering various rigging eyes, including deadeyes: <a href="http://ropeye.com/products.html" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://ropeye.com/products.html</a></p>
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<p>If Im not mistaken, guy who invented those designs, tested them on his Mini Transat boat -…</p>
<p>If you would like a fancy stuff for your dyneema lines, here is one small Estonian company offering various rigging eyes, including deadeyes: <a rel="nofollow" href="http://ropeye.com/products.html" target="_blank">http://ropeye.com/products.html</a></p>
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<p>If Im not mistaken, guy who invented those designs, tested them on his Mini Transat boat - <a href="http://www.classemini.com/?mode=skippers&id_skipper=432&langue=en" target="_blank">http://www.classemini.com/?mode=skippers&id_skipper=432&langue=en</a></p>
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<p>cheers,</p>
<p>Agur</p> Phenolic resin impregnated li…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-09:2195841:Comment:1456592016-10-09T17:26:05.801ZRobert Hugheshttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/RobertHughes
<p>Phenolic resin impregnated linen is a very good and well tested material. It's sold in England under the name 'Tufnol'. It was used for many years for blocks for running rigging and things like cleats. You can still get them from stockists that specialise in the 'traditional' look. I've replaced my old alloy mooring cleats with tufnol ones.</p>
<p>Tufnol doesn't corrode or degrade significantly, but the surface weathers nicely with age rather like teak does. If you buy the right grade…</p>
<p>Phenolic resin impregnated linen is a very good and well tested material. It's sold in England under the name 'Tufnol'. It was used for many years for blocks for running rigging and things like cleats. You can still get them from stockists that specialise in the 'traditional' look. I've replaced my old alloy mooring cleats with tufnol ones.</p>
<p>Tufnol doesn't corrode or degrade significantly, but the surface weathers nicely with age rather like teak does. If you buy the right grade the water resistance is fine for fittings on deck. I find it easy enough to work or machine as an amateur, but the smell if it gets too hot while you're machining it isn't pleasant. Router, small lathe or bandsaw works fine. I've not tried glueing it.</p>
<p>The material is reasonably priced but fittings are expensive because of the work involved in manufacturing them. You can often buy small bits of tufnol at boat jumble sales.<br/> <br/> <cite>Omar M. Rashash said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/forum/topics/deadeyes-for-dyneema-rig-tension?page=1&commentId=2195841%3AComment%3A145750&x=1#2195841Comment145998"><div><div class="xg_user_generated"><p>While lignum vitae is the traditional material, it is difficult to find in adequate size and quantity. If you want to make your own deadeyes, 1/2"-3/4" industrial grade phenolic (resin impregnated linen), will do the trick. It can be worked with most woodworking tools and is between hardwood and aluminum in its difficulty to shape.</p>
<p>Omar</p>
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</blockquote> 3-6mm deadeyes these are smal…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-09:2195841:Comment:1456582016-10-09T15:21:24.036Zboatsmithhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/qe0j3ojqb10
<p><a href="http://www.colligomarine.com/shop-all/terminator-lifeline-3-6mm-black" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">3-6mm deadeyes</a> these are smaller with 11,000 lb breaking strength $34. G3 is also a very strong phenolic glass material that is strong stable and relatively cheap and machines well. I thought that Precourt ceased operations several years ago. Their website was last updated in '02. Here are their thoughts on shackle/ring used for deadeyes.</p>
<p><font face="Arial Black">The…</font></p>
<p><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.colligomarine.com/shop-all/terminator-lifeline-3-6mm-black" target="_blank">3-6mm deadeyes</a> these are smaller with 11,000 lb breaking strength $34. G3 is also a very strong phenolic glass material that is strong stable and relatively cheap and machines well. I thought that Precourt ceased operations several years ago. Their website was last updated in '02. Here are their thoughts on shackle/ring used for deadeyes.</p>
<p><font face="Arial Black">The original way to go with synthetic lines was by using splice and sailmaker's welded thimble on the two ends of the shrouds. A bow shackle is pinned on the hull chaine plate. Then, some wraps of thin line are lashed between the shrouds and the bow shackle. In the result, it works but there is some problems like :</font></p>
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<li><i><font face="Arial Black"><font color="#008888">Difficulties to adjust the shroud</font> length caused by a lot of frictions in the lashing ;</font></i></li>
<li><i><font face="Arial Black">A really small radius for the lashing lines ;</font></i></li>
<li><i><font face="Arial Black">The forces are not well distributed on the bow shackle's pin ;</font></i></li>
<li><i><font face="Arial Black">The thimble collapses under the forces involved, when racing really hard.</font></i></li>
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<p>At $70 a pair the Colligo deadeyes are cheaper than I can machine them from any material and are very nice. I can't even glue up wood blocks and rout/rasp/epoxy/finish them for that price. I do have to count my time. The anodized aluminum ones will never rot or need refinishing. If all you want is to spend no cash and you don't mind spending lot's of time then by all means you can make some strong enough ones. Have fun.</p> Bonjour,
De retour je suppose…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2016-10-09:2195841:Comment:1456552016-10-09T15:14:02.482ZBlanc Jean-Paulhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/BlancJeanPaul
<p>Bonjour,</p>
<p>De retour je suppose. ta question est de savoir si les cap de moutons en CP sont suffisants? Comme l'a dis Ricardo non. </p>
<p>Pour ma part, j'ai simplement utilisé des cosse cœur en inox dans lesquelles j'ai fait trois passages de garcette de 6 mm en textile ordinaire. Pour infos, mes haubans sont en vectran de 6 mm, largement suffisant. La performance du vectran ou du dyneema pour son diamètre est telle, que le risque est de cisailler les caps de moutons comme avec un fil…</p>
<p>Bonjour,</p>
<p>De retour je suppose. ta question est de savoir si les cap de moutons en CP sont suffisants? Comme l'a dis Ricardo non. </p>
<p>Pour ma part, j'ai simplement utilisé des cosse cœur en inox dans lesquelles j'ai fait trois passages de garcette de 6 mm en textile ordinaire. Pour infos, mes haubans sont en vectran de 6 mm, largement suffisant. La performance du vectran ou du dyneema pour son diamètre est telle, que le risque est de cisailler les caps de moutons comme avec un fil à couper le beurre. (ça m'est arrivé avec les cales en haut du mât). Bien fourrer pour augmenter le diamètre au niveau de l’œil pour avoir une surface de contact plus grande. </p>