Construction Using Stainless Steel Brad Nails - Wharram Builders and Friends2024-03-30T08:41:06Zhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/forum/topics/construction-using-stainless-steel-brad-nails?feed=yes&xn_auth=noWhen I did beam rebuild last…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-04-12:2195841:Comment:1163352014-04-12T13:17:59.374Zandy solywodahttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/andysolywoda
<p>When I did beam rebuild last summer I used a Harbor Freight brad nailer, but the brads were only good for keeping scarf joints from slipping laterally, they weren't effective on thick pieces of wood. I used 1 5/8 brads on 1 inch planks and needed clamps to maintain the glue line. The nailer works very well for putting cabinets together, nailing trim, just don't nail your finger like one of our professionals did last year.</p>
<p>When I did beam rebuild last summer I used a Harbor Freight brad nailer, but the brads were only good for keeping scarf joints from slipping laterally, they weren't effective on thick pieces of wood. I used 1 5/8 brads on 1 inch planks and needed clamps to maintain the glue line. The nailer works very well for putting cabinets together, nailing trim, just don't nail your finger like one of our professionals did last year.</p> Hitachi makes a really nice a…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-04-11:2195841:Comment:1164102014-04-11T23:43:53.604ZRusty Gesnerhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/RustyGesner
<p>Hitachi makes a really nice air powered brad nailer at a reasonable price. I think I got mine at Lowes.</p>
<p>Hitachi makes a really nice air powered brad nailer at a reasonable price. I think I got mine at Lowes.</p> Thanks for the reply. i shou…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-04-09:2195841:Comment:1163182014-04-09T00:08:56.865ZMike Haromyhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/MikeHaromy242
<p>Thanks for the reply. i should be done the beam glue up in 3-4 weeks if spring ever comes.</p>
<p>i actually dont' think i "need" a brad nailer but i'm getting tool mania with the weather delay in Canada.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the reply. i should be done the beam glue up in 3-4 weeks if spring ever comes.</p>
<p>i actually dont' think i "need" a brad nailer but i'm getting tool mania with the weather delay in Canada.</p>
<p></p> I think the brads were in the…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-04-08:2195841:Comment:1162622014-04-08T23:53:24.610ZJeff Kittlehttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/JeffKittle
<p>I think the brads were in the scarf when we made the long layer prior to placing it on the beam itself. Then we used screws to hold the long 1x6 to the one below it.(We removed them after the glue had set). I haven't tried, but I don't think that the brads will be strong enough to hold the curved side down. It's been so long and all my remaining supplies are 1500 miles away. I honestly don't remember the size I used or the brand. And I know I found brads in the beam but I also remember…</p>
<p>I think the brads were in the scarf when we made the long layer prior to placing it on the beam itself. Then we used screws to hold the long 1x6 to the one below it.(We removed them after the glue had set). I haven't tried, but I don't think that the brads will be strong enough to hold the curved side down. It's been so long and all my remaining supplies are 1500 miles away. I honestly don't remember the size I used or the brand. And I know I found brads in the beam but I also remember using tons of screws to keep everything together. </p>
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<p>We used brads mainly as a means to hold something in place until the glue set or to keep the piece from moving until we could apply stronger fasteners. I would use them to hang the plywood panels to the stringers to measure the cut, and then again to hold the cut piece in place while we screwed it. They are also great to hold stairs,shelves and other interior furniture in place while the glue sets.</p>
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<p>Sorry I can't be of more help! I'll be in Michigan again in a few weeks and I'll try to find my brad box.</p> Jeff, did you use 16 or 18 gu…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-04-08:2195841:Comment:1162582014-04-08T19:12:09.352ZMike Haromyhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/MikeHaromy242
<p>Jeff, did you use 16 or 18 guage for the beam construction? just wondering if 18 guage is enough to hold a 1x6 plank in place til the glue sets, especially as it's only under stress at the ends where the beam curves on the top.</p>
<p>Jeff, did you use 16 or 18 guage for the beam construction? just wondering if 18 guage is enough to hold a 1x6 plank in place til the glue sets, especially as it's only under stress at the ends where the beam curves on the top.</p> Stainless steel can change it…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-03-26:2195841:Comment:1156662014-03-26T15:14:39.975ZArmin Foellhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/ArminFoell
<p>Stainless steel can change its condition in a series of ways. The most common is "electrical corrosion" which typically occurs when SS is in contact with other metals such as aluminium, bronze or "normal steel". Then there is so-called "crystalisation" this can be induced electrically or by temperature. And last but not least it can corrode in wet and salty environment. But it cannot "rust", rusting means corrosion with production of "rust". This is an iron-containing mineral with 7 times…</p>
<p>Stainless steel can change its condition in a series of ways. The most common is "electrical corrosion" which typically occurs when SS is in contact with other metals such as aluminium, bronze or "normal steel". Then there is so-called "crystalisation" this can be induced electrically or by temperature. And last but not least it can corrode in wet and salty environment. But it cannot "rust", rusting means corrosion with production of "rust". This is an iron-containing mineral with 7 times more volume than steel. This volume increase typically causes a series of problems.</p>
<p>In the case butches boater describes I see no risk at all. The fasteners are only important to keep the wooden plates or parts in place until the glue is firm enough to do its job. After that it does not matter if they're there or not.</p>
<p>Using SS fasteners to fix plywood plates or strips on boat hulls is an accepted method for more than 40 years meanwhile.</p>
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<p>If I once start to built my own Wharram I would definitely go this way.</p>
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<p>If you don't want them to stay in place you can use one trick: Take a roller shutter belt and send the fasteners through the belt into the wood. After the glue is hardened, simply pull them with the belt out of the wood. This might work better or worse, depending on the type of fasteners you are using. Other belts or strong ribbons will also work.</p>
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<p>Regards and always fair winds, Armin</p> any recommendations on brand?tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-03-25:2195841:Comment:1158342014-03-25T20:19:31.674ZMike Haromyhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/MikeHaromy242
<p>any recommendations on brand?</p>
<p>any recommendations on brand?</p> Just today I had to remove a…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-03-25:2195841:Comment:1158332014-03-25T19:33:06.020ZJeff Kittlehttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/JeffKittle
<p>Just today I had to remove a layer of softwood from a beam that had some rot in it. The lashings had molded nicely into the wood on the beam which unfortunately caused rot. So I cut off the top 1x6 on the beam. The saw went right through the brads - just a spark once in a while. And of note, they were shiny and rust free even though some of the wood was not so great. This is after 6 years of use.</p>
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<p>Just today I had to remove a layer of softwood from a beam that had some rot in it. The lashings had molded nicely into the wood on the beam which unfortunately caused rot. So I cut off the top 1x6 on the beam. The saw went right through the brads - just a spark once in a while. And of note, they were shiny and rust free even though some of the wood was not so great. This is after 6 years of use.</p>
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<p></p> I suppose Robert Hugh's criti…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-03-25:2195841:Comment:1156612014-03-25T18:56:06.441ZJeremy Walkerhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/JeremyWalker
<p>I suppose Robert Hugh's criticism of the gold plated screws amounts to a similar risk as does use of s/steel.........</p>
<p>To clarify -- the boatbuilder who used this trick was only using them for interior furnishing, where contact with salt water was not a major problem. So I guess tacking the furnishings together with stainless/s brads is no more harmfull, only a lot cheaper...............Budget Boating for sure</p>
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<p>However, my intended point was to imply that using…</p>
<p>I suppose Robert Hugh's criticism of the gold plated screws amounts to a similar risk as does use of s/steel.........</p>
<p>To clarify -- the boatbuilder who used this trick was only using them for interior furnishing, where contact with salt water was not a major problem. So I guess tacking the furnishings together with stainless/s brads is no more harmfull, only a lot cheaper...............Budget Boating for sure</p>
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<p>However, my intended point was to imply that using stailnless steel fastenings was not a cure-all from a corrosion point of veiw................we will invariably be tempted to compromise when it comes to economising, but I have come across those who thought stailess steel was fine for marine use regardless of application</p>
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<p> </p> I am glad you mentioned this.…tag:wharrambuilders.ning.com,2014-03-25:2195841:Comment:1157452014-03-25T15:21:25.979ZBudget Boaterhttp://wharrambuilders.ning.com/profile/BudgetBoater
<p>I am glad you mentioned this. Actually this is a common occurrence we have had to deal with. The best solution that I have found that works is: plane and saw away. SHOCKING, I know! However, my Bosch planer and saw blades have suffered no effects from encounters with the brads. The planer tends to push them down and over. I am still running on the same set of blades which have encountered hundreds of brads. Hole saws and heavy blades pass through the 18 gauge brads as though they were not…</p>
<p>I am glad you mentioned this. Actually this is a common occurrence we have had to deal with. The best solution that I have found that works is: plane and saw away. SHOCKING, I know! However, my Bosch planer and saw blades have suffered no effects from encounters with the brads. The planer tends to push them down and over. I am still running on the same set of blades which have encountered hundreds of brads. Hole saws and heavy blades pass through the 18 gauge brads as though they were not even there. I have not yet found it to be an issue.</p>
<p><br/> <br/> <cite>Robert Hughes said:</cite></p>
<blockquote cite="http://wharrambuilders.ning.com/forum/topics/construction-using-stainless-steel-brad-nails?page=1&commentId=2195841%3AComment%3A115740&x=1#2195841Comment115740"><div><br/><p>I think Budget Boater's idea is excellent, except for the danger of running into a brad when you're working with a plane or a hole saw...<br/> <br/></p>
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