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I am moving back to the US from Japan, and my Melanesia is too long for the moving company to fit in their custom crates. I considered selling, but it is about 90% complete, and I hate to lose it before it even touches water. I am considering cutting it in half to fit, and reassembling it later in the similar manner as the build, using additional plywood to overlap either side of the cut line. I am looking at cutting just behind the forward seat, against the original plywood overlap. Can anyone foresee major issues? My only concern is the aft portion losing its hull shape between the cut line and the aft seat.

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When people build sectional tenders (to make then easy to stow on deck) I think they usually construct them in one piece to start with.  They install a pair of bulkheads where the join is going to be, with a tiny gap in between.  Then they run a saw cut through to separate the halves.  Maybe something like that would work for you?  If the bulkheads are fixed with epoxy fillets they should hold well.

Rob H

I’m not keen on the nesting dinghy style for a canoe hull, but I didn’t think about permanently reattaching and strengthening using the same idea. I think I might go with a bulkhead frame, rather than solid bulkheads to keep the weight down. Cheers for the ideas!
Nate

Good idea.  You could always screw temporary full bulkheads to the frames for while it's in transit, that way you could get away with very narrow frames...

All the best

Rob

I’ve just had the movers’ agent come for a survey of the house, and the canoe has to be cut twice, to allow for a maximum of 84 inches per piece (standard crate internal height is 86.5 inches; 84 inches allows proper padding/protection). I foresee some full-length stringers being added after reassembly.

Divide the canoe with a bulkhead to each side. You will have to create this bulkhead. Maybe in the middle of the bank? works well, ends up reinforcing the boat.

I will have to put some thought into the bulkheads. In my haste, I did not take enough care and preparation to make straight cuts, and the cut line varies by as much as 8mm from rail to center joint. As a result I may need to trim some material to get an exact fit suitable for bulkheads. However, the slightly irregular cut may be stronger if I don’t join the hull pieces with a bulkhead, and stick to the original method of joining the plywood end-to-end with overlapping. I’ll try to add a couple pictures of the aftermath.

On the left you can see the partially completed plywood ama. I had to design it around my available materials. It, too, required a cut.

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