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I got my masts welded yesterday and could not resist to post some pictures. I know some are interested by this.

The tube were ordered as a group of 4 T38 builders from an aluminum canadian factory. Martin Hivon, member of WB, organized this, a thousand of thanks to him. Al is T6061, the best quality, 4mm thick for the walls.

It is strong, light (50 kg each), light maintenance and not expensive.

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That looks great Jacques! I am so happy for you! Love, Ann and Nev
Nice job jacques, that looks quite a bit simpler than the one Dave Vinni had made. No need for the internal sleeve at all. Good thinking. What have you done at the base? I had originally planned to make my caps and bases out of aluminum but looking more or less like the wooden ones. Have you had any good ideas for the bases?

I made the bases out of hard wood (oak).


The masts look great, I hope you don't mind if I steal your ideas, I was planning on using wooden masts but the aluminum looks like the way to go. I sent a message to Martin to get information about the supplier. I've looked online a little but most suppliers only have 12' long sections.

James Attianese said:

I've looked online a little but most suppliers only have 12' long sections.


That is the problem: the max length available is 20 feet. This could be sleeved for sure, but this is work and a potential weakness. Not counting the wearing of the sail sleeve on the unavoidable rivets.
The masts look great. Do T38 plans call for triangular ?chocks on the front of the mast? I wish we had welded two more of those ears on our masts on the aft aspect to support the poster/upper portion of the forward strop so that it would not sag. Instead I made the strop tighter to help keep it from sagging or slipping off the forward chock. I don't have the plans with me and I am probably using the wrong termonology. I hope you can figure out what I am describing and maybe you have already found better solutions.
Hello Folks,

Here is some shots of the work I did on my mast recently. The mast came to me with a 6' wood foot and a 4' wood top. While I had the boat out of the water, I saw that the upper wooden piece was rotten, so I decided to replace it with aluminum: the center section of the mast being aluminum. The sleeve technique I used came from an engineered drawing.

Test fit of the sleeve to the 1/8" x 5" tube:

Ready to fit the sleeve and new top piece:

Finished top:

I finally got the mast raised last week!

More to the point, properly done a splice is quite all right. With the center section being the longest tube, putting the splices nearer the top and bottom, you can have a suitably strong mast.

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