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Hello everybody,

I built two water tanks in my Tiki38. They are fiberglassed inside. I want to paint them white inside for monitoring and cleaning purpose. What kind of paint could I use without a chance to get poisoned? Can they stay bare epoxy?


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NO PAINT!! Water always wins with most substances. Tint your epoxy white and put an extra coat or two inside the tanks.

Thanks Shane,

What would you use to tint the epoxy?
Evercoat© makes little tubes of coloring agent that can go in various resins, including epoxy. Being that you are in NJ, you can usually find some at a West Marine, or similar type marine store or auto paint store.

I think Wharram's approach to water storage, at least in the tropics where water is i) of unreliable quality and ii) usually not accessible from a hose on the quay, is still the best. Jerry cans – but make sure they are 'food safe' (Plastimo does good 20L ones) and not general purpose as there is increasing evidence that taint from some types of plastics, especially in warm conditions, is carcinogenic. I have been considering using a number of 10L MSR Dromedary water bags, designed for expedition and climbing (http://www.msrgear.com/hydration/dromedary.asp). They lie flat and can be stacked, they're very strong and food-safe), they're easily transportable, they don't creak or fall over, they can be moved to adjust trim... but they are bloody expensive ($40 a bag from Amazon and you'd need a min. of 50 for an extended cruise).
I basically agree with this. On my Tangaroa, Tiki 30, and Schooner, we used Plastimo flexible (collapsible) water tanks, which always worked great. We used these instead of jerry cans simply because we were lazy and did not want to be moving water around, nor poor it from cans. Plus we had watermakers on two of the boats and needed a semi-permanent tank for the water to go into.
Thanks to all.

For the ones practicing the integrated water tanks, I found the solution: an epoxy paint called devoe 233 and FDA approved for underwater/watertanks coating.
This said, I like my solution: I will have a big opening on the top to visit and clean. They are well integrated, just at the gravity center of each hull, very low (against bulkhead 4 at the floor level) and will carry 120 liters each.

I will post pictures when finished.
As promised, I just posted a few pics including one of a water tank.
Those are some nice looking tanks Jacques. I guess 120 litres is a bit less than 30 gallons. If a gallon of fresh water weighs a bit more than 8 pounds, then 240 lbs per tank would be kinda equal to my fat ass sitting around that part of the boat. Shouldn't alter anything, really...at least not much anyway.
Yeah, I like your solution too.
Did you put a baffle in there?

I wonder about putting a similar tank above the galley, only low and conforming to the curve of the deck. A small tank, like 20 gallons, so that there would be gravity fed warm water in the galley.
hehe think I mighta run outta room with all those damn hatches!
Hey Tom, welcome to the forum.

Nice Pahi you are building. I already steal one of your ideas: the bridle groove. I made a similar balcony, got the connecting stainless for forestay/bridle, and was wondering for the fixing/angle for it. The groove will make it.

No baffle in the tank, we will see if needed, then I will add it. One of the concern I have is about the tank levels management (one of them is under the main bunk). I have to find a solution, tank management system by Blue Sea is 350$ and can handle the two tanks. Expensive: let see later if I will have money left (I doubt about it...).


The easiest (and cheapest) way to tell the level is by site. The no brain way is to use a marked dip stick. Another easy way is to install an external marked site tube. Use a clear piece of FDA hose with a 90 degree barb fitting at the bottom and top of the tank with the hose clamped in between the two. This way, you only have to look at the clear hose to see the water level in the tank. You can also extend this type of gauge away from the tank by using some PVC pipe to move it the the front of the berth bulkhead so that the hose is visible without lifting the bunk.


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